søndag den 1. marts 2009

WAGNER-STEMPEL, SIEFERSHEIMER HEERKRETZ, GG, RHEINHESSEN, 2007

This is one of the hidden stars in Rheinhessen – still so young and with his own personal style. Actually I think he has made brilliant wines the last couple of years and even in the difficult 2006 he made an impressive GG wine from Heerkretz without to much alcohol, botrytis and density, but with more elegancy compared to other producers in this region. 2007 is the first year where he really gets the recognition that he deserves e.g. by Gault Millau rewarding him as the “Augsteiger de Jahres” (upcoming this year) – and I am sure he is a producer who is going to be interesting to follow over the next couple of years.

The nose is really appealing with sweet white pear tones, lavender and traces of perfume.Initial it has an almost salt like structure (probably from the volcanic soil on Heerkreetz) showing a lightness, a clearness and delicius elegancy. As it gets heated up inside the mouth it takes on in weight and shows stronger tones of sweet white pear, citrus and weak tones of fennel. The creamy bottom layers in the wines (that shows with temperature) is really impressive during the long finish with lovely tones of pectin and bitterness combined with a almost citrus lanolin tone sticking to the tongue….. crazy aftertaste… The development and pulse of the wine is really driven by the freshness and the complexity. As with many other 2007 wines the entire wine is lifted by the juicy acidity that complete the wine – really an impressive bottle and an estate to keep and eye on in future.

17.5 – 18/20

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